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Aiguille Noire de Peuterey

Alpine three-thousandersMont Blanc massifMountains of Aosta ValleyMountains of the Graian Alps
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 002
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 002

The Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Black Needle of Peuterey, 3,773 m (12,379 ft)) is a mountain of the Mont Blanc massif in Italy, forming part of the Peuterey ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc with its higher neighbour, the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey. The best-known route on the mountain is the south ridge (TD). Along the ridge are the tops of the Pointe Bifida, Pointe Welzenbach 3,355 m (11,007 ft), Pointe Brendel 3,499 m (11,480 ft), Pointe Ottoz, and Pointe Bich 3,753 m (12,313 ft). The route was first climbed by Karl Brendel and Hermann Schaller, on 26 and 27 August 1930; it remains one of the great classic rock routes in the massif. The first ascent of the complete Peuterey ridge including the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (the Intégrale) was on 28–31 July 1934 by Adolf Göttner, Ludwig Schmaderer and Ferdinand Krobath. On 21 August 2010 23-year-old Chloé Graftiaux, a leading Belgian sport climber, fell to her death on the mountain.

Excerpt from the Wikipedia article Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (License: CC BY-SA 3.0, Authors, Images).

Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
Normale Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Courmayeur

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Latitude Longitude
N 45.815 ° E 6.8936111111111 °
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Normale Aiguille Noire de Peuterey

Normale Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
11013 Courmayeur
Aosta Valley, Italy
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Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 002
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 002
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Grand Pilier d'Angle
Grand Pilier d'Angle

The Grand Pilier d'Angle (4,243 m) is a buttress on the southern side of Mont Blanc in the Mont Blanc massif in the Aosta Valley, Italy. The first ascent from the valley was by James Eccles with guides Michel Payot and Alphonse Payot on 30 July 1877 during an ascent of the Peuterey ridge, although the summit had been visited on 20 August 1822 by F. Clissold with guides J. M. Couttet, M. Bossonney, D. Couttet, P. Favret and J. B. Simond on the descent from their first ascent of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. The first ascent of the pillar (the north-east face) itself was by Walter Bonatti and Toni Gobbi on 3 August 1957. Bonatti said after the climb that "the mixed terrain of the face was without doubt the most sombre, the most savage and the most dangerous of any that I have ever encountered in the Alps." The first winter ascent of the Bonatti-Gobbi route was by A. Dworak, J. Kurczab, A. Mróz and T. Piotrowski between 5 and 9 March 1971. The first solo ascent of the route was by Nicolas Jaeger on 3 August 1975. Other well-known routes on the face include the Cecchinel-Nominé (Walter Cecchinel and Georges Nominé, 17 September 1971; the Boivin-Vallençant of 1975 adds a direct finish to this route) and Divine Providence (Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny, 5–7 June 1984). The first solo ascent of this route was by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1990, who said, "This route is the most difficult and involving in the whole of the Mont Blanc massif."

Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc (French: Mont Blanc [mɔ̃ blɑ̃]; Italian: Monte Bianco [ˈmonte ˈbjaŋko], both meaning "white mountain") is the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, and the highest mountain in Europe outside the Caucasus mountains, rising 4,807.81 m (15,774 ft) above sea level, located on the French-Italian border. It is the second-most prominent mountain in Europe, after Mount Elbrus, and it is the eleventh most prominent mountain summit in the world.It gives its name to the Mont Blanc massif, which straddles parts of France, Italy and Switzerland. Mont Blanc's summit lies on the watershed line between the valleys of Ferret and Veny in Italy, and the valleys of Montjoie, and Arve in France. Ownership of the summit area has long been disputed between France and Italy. The Mont Blanc massif is popular for outdoor activities like hiking, climbing, trail running and winter sports like skiing, and snowboarding. The most popular climbing route to the summit of Mont Blanc is the Goûter Route, which typically takes two days. The three towns and their communes which surround Mont Blanc are Courmayeur in Aosta Valley, Italy; and Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and Chamonix in Haute-Savoie, France. The latter town was the site of the first Winter Olympics. A cable car ascends and crosses the mountain range from Courmayeur to Chamonix through the Col du Géant. The 11.6 km (7+1⁄4 mi) Mont Blanc Tunnel, constructed between 1957 and 1965, runs beneath the mountain and is a major transalpine transport route.